Jewelry ornamentation



July 9, 1935- J. M. MILLER ET Al. 2,007,303

JEWELRY ORNAMENTATION Filed NOV. 23, 1953 3 Sheets-Sheet l uw 4 f ai mgmJuly 9, 1935- J. M. MILLER ET AL JEWELRY ORNAMENTATION Filed Nov. 25,1955 5 Sheets-Sheet 2 n/ dr??? July 9, 1935. J, M. MILLER ET AL2,007,303

JEWELRY ORNAMENTATION Filed Nov. 23, 1953 3 Sheets-Sheet 3 Patented July9, 1935 n v 2,007,303 u JEWELnYoRNAMENTATIoN A JohnM. Miller andV GeorgeFenton, Providence, R. I., assignors to The Progressive RingVCompany,Providence, R. I., a corporation of Rhode Island j ApplicationNovember'ZS, l119,33, Serial No. 699,476 '9 Claims. (ci. 'e9-160.1%)

Our present invention relatesto'the `art `jewelry manufacture, and .hasparticular reference to .themanufacture of ornamentalstock forbracelets, anklets, girdles, and other articles "of The ornamental stocknow in use include stock formed with prismatic depressions, preferablyformed by stamping the stock'with diamonddies, Vwhereby the stockv anceofjewel inserts; This sto-ck when used for i bracelets, for example',

the separate rings-being joined or secured togetherbylmeans' of aconnectingV band orY the like. .y

Wehavefdevised aA novel method andapparatus for producing the-novelstockin theform =fof alcontinuous metal helix, of any desired length; andwe'have devised amanufacturing arrange- 'mentito controlvthespacingvof thehelix turns,

whereby the turns may be close, or may be `unito permit the insertion offormly spacedapart van c'irnanie'ntalV helix of differentmaterial, suchas for example catalin of differentc'olors.

Tothis end, wefha've improvedV the process of manufacturing ornamentalhelix,l and Vwe have improved the apparatus therefor, :so as-to utilizesoft metal wire, which is hardened and elongated bylw'orking,`whereb`y a`novel product consisting of a` continuous ornamental metal helix of`pre- 'determined 'size and spacing is automatically obtained. u j iWith -thef above,` and vother objects and advantageous features infVeW,our invention consists of a novel process, and a vresulting novelproduct, as more fullyfdisolosed inthe detailed `descriptio-n followingin' conjunction with the accompanying drawings, and as more specificallydenedV in the claims appended Ithereto.

,FignZ "isa sideelevation, parts being broken Fig. 3 is adetailviewpshowing the mechanism' for regulating the metal wire;

Fig. 4 is a detail rear elevationv of the novel the depth of thefimpression on anviliixture cooperating *withV the imprinting plunger; u

Fig. 5 is a top view thereof, the wirebeing broken away Vrto show theanvil surface;

Fig. 6 is a bottom view thereof, illustrating the shape of the, plateguide; Y

of p

`when'made into jewelry re-` "iiects light brilliantly and presentsthe*` appear- Y has heretofore 'been madeVV as single rings 'for use ingroups of three or more,-

"cessed at the rearfand transverse pivot' 2 3, integral with lingtherefor'.A A cam lever 24,

u u '1 finangularity of the-fixture 1 'is a] front elevaticnriy ofthe`improved rig, 71s a sideelevaun of Figi, disclosing the spacingadjustment;

Fig. 8 is aspcrspectiveview of theresultant helix, showing the spacingbetweenVv thel helix.

turns; and

Y. Fig. 9 is adetail Referring to the drawings, the novel apparatus isgenerally similar to .standard punchor'impressing mechanism, andincludes a base l adaptedV to be mounted on a bench or'the like, a bodyil receiving an anvil fixture, and a head I2 containing the usualplunger operating mechanism, r,the `headA .1.82. housing a greciprocating plunger i3. A power pulleyld, see Fig. 2, rotates theusualshaft L of the plunger operating mechanism, and a pulley' lruis keyed'on the plunger shaft to` impart rotativemovement toV a fixture pulley I1, Y'asby albeit lfwhereby the `fixture shaft VI9 is rotatedv in timedrelation to thereciprocating movement of. thefplunger,

,j The body Il is provided with a horizontalv lon- Y gitudinal slotV 2Bin which a xture shaftr holder 2i is slidably mounted,.this .holderbeing refpivotally mounted on a 22 extending through an ear the body'lI'. The xture shaft 19 is housed in the holder, which acts as'a bearseeFig. 3, is swingingly mounted on the face of the body [Il and has a camnose 25 which engages the lower face ofthe holder,A whereby adjustmentofthe armv 126 of the lever by means `of the spaced lock Vscrews 21,28swings the holder'to lift the fixture shaft I9/` and thus regulate thedepth` of impress of the reciprocating'plu'nger on the-metal wire, ashereinafter described. The beltj i8 has sufficient resiliencetocompensate for slight changes pulleyY Il. i

r '1Theamzzlijatti/,1'eV

Theanvil fixtureZQ, see Fig. 2,7 is rinourltedon the body H in operativeengagement with the forward end of the `fixture shaft, and a guide shaft3U is positioned on the rend of the fixture shaft to receive thecompleted helix as it leaves the anvil xture. y Referring nowto Figs. 1,4, and 6, the anvil fixture 29 has an anvil 3| rotatably mounted thereonand adapted to be keyed to the shaft perspective view showing theimpresseddesign :'l l Y I9, whereby the anvil is positively rotated. A

gear 32, see Fig. 5, is secured to or formed integral with the anvil,and rotates an idler 33 for imparting positive motion to the gears 34,35, secured to or integral with a lower feed roll 36, and an upper feedroll 31 which is mounted in a swinging arm 38 and is resiliently pressedtowards the lower feed roll by a spring 39, the spring being locked onan adjusting bolt 40 which is threaded in the fixture body and.p9,Ssesthrough a suitable bore 4| in the swinging arm. The lower feed roll ispreferably knurled to provide a firm grip on the wire, and may beroughened or embossed to rmly grip the wire or to impress an attractivedesign on the inner surface thereof. A horizontal guideway 42 isprovided in the fixture between the anvil and the feed rolls.

Two guide rollers 43, 44, see Fig. 4, receive the impressed wire afterit leaves the anvil, and an adjustable forming roller 45 then guides thewire onto a forming plate 4S having curved elevations and depressionswhich cooperate with the forming roller to set the curvature of thewire, the vertical setting of the adjustable forming roller determiningthe diameter of the formed helix, and the lateral setting of the formingroller determining the spacing of the formed coils. The forming roller45 is rotatably mounted in an arm 41, see Figs. 4 and 7, which isdevtachably secured to the fixture body, and may be shifted verticallyby removing and resetting a pivot pin 48, on which it may also beadjustably swung, see Fig. 7, in order to secure a predetermined uniformspacing between coils, as indicated in Fig. 8.

The operation of the mechanism The .operation is best disclosed withreference to Figs. 4, 5, and 1; the metal wire W is received linthe'fixture between the two feed rolls, and is vpositively fed to theanvil, at which point it re- 'being dependent on the vertical adjustmentof Y the forming roller and the coil spacing being de- Apendent; on thelateral adjustment thereof.

Although the stock may be with any desired design, the .most suitableimprints are of diamond formation,!and the preferred type is illustratedinfFig. .9, and is in the form of an inverted 'truncated pyramid havinga vrectangular base, 'a rectangular top, and sloping faces between thecorresponding sides of the'base and top.

The above described operation, using a rotary anViL'punches theimpression on the stock at the start of the curve, and thus produces animpression in which the design is not distorted and the brilliancy isnot effected Vby the actual cuwingnauch as would resultwhen theimpressedstock is wound on an arbor. The brilliancy and clean punch effect of theimpression in the final helix is thus unimpaired.

It is thus evident that the invention comprises a novel process in thata dead soft metal wire is `worked to obtain a desired impressing and toharden the wire, and is then bent into a spiral of predetermineddiameter; a novel'apparatus in that the mechanism is adjustable to gaugethe impression and to set the spiral obtained for diameter and forspacing; and a novel product in that .an ornamental spiral of desiredwidth and spacing and of springy metal is obtained.

While we have described a specific constructional embodiment of ourinvention, it is obvious that desired changes in the arrangement and thesize of the parts and in their function and operation, may be madewithout departing from the spirit and the scope of the invention asdefined in the appended claims.

We claim:

1. A helix of hardened resilient material lhaving indented ornamentationon the outer surface thereof.

2. A helix of hardened resilient material `having indented ornamentationon the outer surface thereof, the coils of the spiral being uniformlyspaced apart.

3. A hardened resilient stock for use in making ornamental jewelry,having adjacent impressions of truncated rectangular pyramidal shape.

4. In the manufacture of ornamental jewelry,

- the steps of hardening a metal wire by indenting the lupper part whileholding the sides and the lower part against spreading, and winding thehardened wire into a helix.

5. In the manufacture of ornamental jewelry, the steps of hardeningametal wire by indenting the upper part while holding the sides andthelower ypart against spreading, and winding the hardened wirevinto ahelix of predetermined diameter.

6. In the manufacture of ornamental jewelry, the steps of hardening ametal wire by indenting the upper part while holding the sides and thelower part against spreading, and winding the hardened wire into a helixof predetermined diameter and predetermined spacing between vthe coilsthereof.

7. A helix of hardened resilient material having indented ornamentationon the outer surface thereof, the sides and the lower surface of saidmaterial being substantially smooth.

8. A helix of hardened resilientmaterial having indented ornamentationon the outer surface thereof, the coils of the helix being uniformlyspaced apart, the sides and the lower surface of said material beingsubstantially smooth.

9. A hardened resilient stock for use in making ornamental jewelry,havingadjacent impressions of truncated rectangular pyramidal shape,.the sides and the lower surface of said stock Ybeing substantiallysmooth.

. JOHN M.- MILLER.

GEORGE F. FENTON.

